Cholula’s Green Giant: Secrets of the Overgrown Pyramid

Nestled in the Mexican municipality of San Andrés Cholula lies a marvel obscured by time and nature — the Great Pyramid of Cholula. This colossal structure, often overlooked amidst the acclaim of its Egyptian counterpart, the Great Pyramid of Giza, stands as the world’s largest pyramid by volume. Yet, its form differs vastly from the iconic pyramids we envision.

Call me V
7 min readJan 3, 2024
[Photo: Ernest Mettendorf, Public domain, via Wikimedia Commons]

Layers of History: Unveiling the Complexity

The Great Pyramid of Cholula, contrary to the singular structure we often associate with pyramids, is a testament to the collaborative efforts of civilizations across centuries. Nestled within its layers lies a chronicle of cultural evolution, a monument that embodies the transition of power, beliefs, and architectural prowess.

The construction of the Great Pyramid of Cholula spans across several centuries, beginning around the 3rd century BCE and continuing through the pre-Columbian era. The pyramid’s initial core was believed to have been established by indigenous communities like the Olmecs or Toltecs, with subsequent civilizations, notably the Aztecs, adding layers and expanding the structure over time. This continuous construction, layer upon layer, persisted until the arrival of Spanish conquistadors in the 16th century.

What sets this monumental structure apart is not merely its size but the intricate fusion of styles and ideologies ingrained within its architecture. Deciphering these layers provides a glimpse into the beliefs, rituals, and daily lives of the people who inhabited the region across epochs.

The pyramid’s gradual transformation from a foundational core into a sprawling complex mirrors the dynamic cultural shifts and innovations that characterized Mesoamerican societies. From religious ceremonies to societal changes, the layers within the pyramid serve as a palimpsest, preserving the essence of each civilization that contributed to its grandeur.

Moreover, the pyramid’s disguised appearance as a hill, covered in vibrant vegetation, served as a veil preserving these historical layers from the ravages of time and human intervention. This natural camouflage guarded the monument against the erasing hands of conquest, ensuring its preservation for curious minds to uncover and explore.

Each layer, carefully excavated and studied by archaeologists, reveals not only the physical architecture but also a narrative of progress and adaptation. Pottery shards, intricate murals, and symbolic artifacts found within these layers provide invaluable clues, piecing together the mosaic of cultures that called this monumental structure home.

[Photo: Octavio Alonso Maya …, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons]

A Shroud of Mystery

The cloak of vegetation, comprising lush grass and thriving trees, wasn’t just an accident of nature but a protective cloak that inadvertently preserved the monument. Amidst the Spanish conquests that razed many historical treasures, this natural disguise acted as a fortress, shielding the pyramid from destruction and allowing it to endure, silently guarding the secrets buried within its core.

Intriguingly, this concealment also obscured the pyramid’s true nature, leading to its misidentification as a hill for centuries. The unique disguise, blending seamlessly with the surrounding landscape, became a sanctuary, ensuring the monument’s survival against the ravages of history.

As history progressed, the pyramid’s fate took a curious turn with the Spanish conquest. Atop this ancient wonder, the conquistadors erected the “Iglesia de Nuestra Señora de los Remedios.” The colonial church, symbolizing the triumph of new beliefs over old, represents a juxtaposition of eras, where the remnants of ancient rituals met the echoes of a new faith atop layers of buried history.

The guise of a hill, combined with the colonial addition, created an intriguing fusion of past and present, ancient beliefs entwined with colonial influences. This synthesis, visible through the layers of the pyramid and the church atop it, speaks volumes about the complex tapestry of cultures that converged upon this sacred site.

[Photo: Lalomora12, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons]

The Convergence of Eras: Church atop History

Atop the serene façade of the Great Pyramid of Cholula stands an unexpected testament to historical convergence — the “Iglesia de Nuestra Señora de los Remedios,” a colonial church erected by Spanish conquerors in the 16th century. This architectural superimposition marks a unique juncture where the old world met the new, where ancient beliefs intertwined with colonial influence, creating a complex fusion of spiritual narratives.

The Spanish conquest, characterized by the imposition of Christianity upon indigenous cultures, found a peculiar expression atop this ancient wonder. The church, with its colonial design and Christian symbolism, stands starkly contrasting against the backdrop of an indigenous monument dedicated to the god Quetzalcoatl.

The juxtaposition of the church atop the pyramid is a visual manifestation of the changing tides of history, a symbolic clash of civilizations and ideologies. It represents the conquest-driven transformation of sacred spaces, where ancient rituals were supplanted by colonial doctrines, as the old gave way to the new.

This convergence of eras atop the Great Pyramid of Cholula signifies not just a clash but a fusion of cultures, a space where beliefs and histories intersect. The amalgamation of architectural styles and spiritual ideologies mirrors the intricate interplay between the indigenous heritage and the dominance of the conquering forces.

Despite this overlay of a foreign faith, the pyramid retained its essence, silently bearing witness to the amalgamation of civilizations. This integration, while signaling a transformative period in the region’s history, also encapsulates the resilience of indigenous beliefs, subtly surviving beneath the veneer of colonial imposition.

[Photo: Luis Alvaz, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons]

Echoes from the Past

Archaeological excavations continually unearth artifacts that offer glimpses into the lives and beliefs of the ancient cultures that thrived within the pyramid’s embrace. Each discovery — be it pottery fragments, vivid murals, or intricate artifacts — adds layers to the vivid narrative enshrouded in this forgotten wonder.

The pyramid stands as an unfinished story, a testament to an interrupted legacy. Was it the grip of a natural disaster or the turbulence of political upheaval that halted its construction? The mystery pervades, leaving historians and archaeologists intrigued, piecing together fragments to decode its enigmatic tale.

[Photo: Diego Delso, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons]

Exploring Cholula’s Enigmatic Marvel

For those intrigued by the enigmatic allure of the Great Pyramid of Cholula, embarking on an exploration of this historical wonder demands a blend of curiosity and preparation. Here are some tips to enhance your visit:

  • Consider opting for guided tours offered by local experts or tour companies. These guides often provide insightful narratives, unlocking the mysteries hidden within the pyramid’s layers while ensuring a comprehensive exploration of the site.
  • While visitors cannot ascend the entirety of the pyramid due to preservation efforts and safety reasons, certain sections offer access for a closer look. Embrace the opportunity to ascend to elevated viewpoints, allowing a panoramic glimpse of the surrounding landscape.
  • Check the operating hours of the archaeological site in advance. Typically, the site opens early in the morning, allowing visitors ample time to explore and absorb the historical richness.
  • Ensure comfortable footwear and clothing suitable for exploring the outdoors, especially if planning to traverse the surrounding area or climb accessible sections of the pyramid.

Navigating to Cholula:

  • By Air: Travelers flying into Mexico can consider arriving at either Mexico City or Puebla. From Mexico City, Cholula is approximately a two-hour drive, while from Puebla, it’s a shorter distance of around 30 minutes.
  • By Ground Transportation: Travelers can opt for buses or private transportation services available from Mexico City to Cholula. The journey offers scenic vistas, presenting a glimpse of Mexico’s diverse landscapes.
  • From Puebla: If arriving in Puebla, various transportation modes such as taxis, buses, or rideshare services can transport visitors to the archaeological site of Cholula.

Local Transportation:

Within Cholula, taxis or rideshares are convenient modes of transportation for navigating the town and reaching the pyramid’s entrance. Embrace the local ambiance by strolling through Cholula’s vibrant streets, adorned with colorful facades and rich cultural heritage.

Exploring the Great Pyramid of Cholula isn’t just a journey through time; it’s an immersion into the tapestry of cultures and the resilience of an ancient marvel. Prepare for a captivating experience as you uncover the layers of history veiled within this verdant giant, each step echoing with the whispers of an ancient world waiting to be discovered.

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Call me V

Knowledge, like air, is vital to life. Like air, no one should be denied it.